5 Oil Change

Tools I used:

• allen socket for the drain plug
• rubber mallet to tap the socket wrench to prevent striping it
• sears rubber belt wrench for filter
• torque wrench

Parts needed:

• Repsol 4T Synthetic Blend 1 LTR 10w 40 $14.99 x 3
• OEM oil filter $12.99
• Drain plug washer
• Every other oil change get the washers needed to clean the screen and re torque plugs
  

Learning and informational resources:

I would not have been as confident I could do this service myself if it was not for the ca-cycleworks videos. Thanks Chris!
CA Cycleworks Oil Change video

Oil Change steps:

1. Run the bike to get the oil warm
   
2. loosen the drain plug
3. drain oil
   
4. Remove the filter
5. let oil drain ( lower rear stand if you have one to make sure you get all the oil out)
6. Fill new filter and wiper oil on the rubber seal
7. tighten as tight as you can by hand and then give then slightest turn with the oil filter wrench.
8. re torque drain plug (use new crush washer).
   
9. re fill once you have it to the right spot on the viewing window I start the bike for a minute.
10. Then top off the oil if needed.
11. Ride
12. Check for leaks and check the oil level again
    

I changed the screen last oil change. I will add these steps next oil change.

 



 

Tools I used:

• a bunch of allen wrenches (t-handle, L-bar and socket)
• torque wrench

Learning and informational resources:

I would not have been as confident I could do this service myself if it was not for the ca-cycleworks videos. Thanks Chris!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9vzPZ84ZRjU

Here are the things I learned:

With the covers off and plugs out. I spun the back wheel in top gear to line up the pulleys.

Belt Replacement - Removal Steps:

1. Remover sparkplugs
2. Put finger over the plug hole on the horizontal cylinder by the front wheel once you feel pressure pushing at your finger then line up the pulley marks.
3. Double check everything lines up.
4. Loosen the tensioner bolts
5. Slip horizontal belt off the pulley on the cam
6. Remove belt
7. Slip vertical belt off the pulley on the cam
8. Remove belt

Belt Replacement - Installation Steps

1. The crank pulley should be in the same spot it was when you removed the belts (check the mark lines up)
2. Use you fingers to line up the cam pulley with the mark
   
3. Slip vertical belt on to the pulley on the cam
4. Carefully get the belt around the crank pulley without letting the cam pulley move.
   
5. Pull the tensioner in and lightly tighten to hold it in place till you check the tension
6. Line up the horizontal cam pulley
7. Slip belt over it and the slip belt over the cam pulley

Belt Replacement - Setting Tension on the belts

1. Set the tension by feel
2. Make sure you can push down on the belt and it will move off the idler.
3. Use a 5mm and 6mm hex wrench. The 5mm should slide between the belt and idler and the 6mm should be pretty hard. (watch video)
4. I also used the 45 degree method. I read you should be able to twist the belt 45 degrees

I feel that with so many people using the 5mm hex method I should be fine. The belts that where on there were looser but close to the hex tension.

Lots of good photos I found

3. Valve Adjustment

Valve Adjustment

I started this step by collecting some tools and doing some research on the interweb.

Tools I used:

• new set of feeler gauges (with a .0025 gauge more on that later)

• magnet
• cotter pin puller

• a bunch of allen wrenches (t-handle, L-bar and socket)
• torque wrench
• piece of glass for sanding
• 400 and 600 grit wet dry paper
• something to measure shims like a digital caliper or micrometer(I borrowed a dial caliper)

Tools I would have needed to remove the closers:

• forceps to hold valve
• magnet
• ear plugs for oil passage

Learning and informational resources:

• Valve adjustment spread sheet I found
• Ducati Maintenance Table
• Ducati Tightening List
• http://www.ducatisuite.com/valves.html

I would not have been as confident I could do this service myself if it was not for the ca-cycleworks videos. Thanks Chris!

• http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dIj3nSJGPZw

Here are the things I learned:

Roll a towel and but it behind the tank where the seat normally is. Then lean the tank back. This gives you a lot more room to work

I figured out that getting the metal part of the battery mount off was not as easy as it looked.
First remove the battery disconnecting the NEGATIVE terminal first. remove the plastic cover next. Then stick a wrench in between the wires from the right side of the bike and just loosen the nut on the lower stud. Then remove the rest of the nuts and you can then loosen the stud for that tough lower corner. The photos below will help explain.

This shot shows how I got the two wrenches in to loosen the cover stud so it could be removed with the battery mount

The covers on my 620 where metal and didn't need to be replaced.

With the covers off and plugs out. I spun the back wheel in top gear to line up the pulleys.

Once lined up I found that you really had to push on the closer arm to make sure you got a accurate reading.

Final big thing I learned was if you have to do any adjustment pull the belts off. It is pretty easy and way easier to check them.

Valve adjustment steps:

1. Remove the needed piece to get access to the valve inspection covers
2. Remover covers and sparkplugs
3. Put finger over plug hole once you feel pressure pushing at your finger then line up the pulley marks.
4. Check opener for both valves by the front wheel. Then push down on the closer arm and check the gaps at the opener again. by subtracting the first opener gap you know the closer gap. (watch the video :))
5. Then finger on top plug hole spin the wheel till you feel pressure then put a T-Allen in the plug hole and carefully spin the wheel to find TDC on that cylinder.
6. I tended to get close TDC with a little more and then turn the wheel looking in the flywheel viewer and stopped at the next dot. That seemed to be close to TDC for the top cylinder.
7. At this point you realize the adjustment doesn't change much on these bikes and you start putting it back together. Like I should have but I ended up having to replace an opener I sanded.
8. Or you pull the belts and start adjusting
9. Reassembly is pretty straight forward. Take photos as you remove things to help. Torque all the bolts you can.

My valves with 6k on them where all .004 openers and .002 closers

Misc photo